The King of holiday destinations: Las Vegas still has style and swagger, says Kay Burley

The King of holiday destinations: Las Vegas still has style and swagger, says Kay Burley


I was meeting a man who swore he was Elvis.
He was loitering by the Welcome To Las Vegas sign while wearing a white sequined jumpsuit and singing Are You Lonesome Tonight to excited Japanese tourists. I offered him a wry smile as they duly handed over $10 bills for the privilege of being photographed by the Vegas sign with The King.

The real deal: Kay encounters 'Elvis' on her arrival in Las Vegas

There are many other easy ways to be parted with your money in the world's gambling mecca and, as I discovered, not all of them involve the roulette wheel. Times have changed since I was last in Vegas more than 25 years ago, when there was little else to do but lose a fortune in the casino or head out into the desert in an air-conditioned car.

 

It hadn't been on my radar since, but when I was commissioned to cover the US election from there, how could I refuse? Las Vegas was in a swing state - a marginal seat, as we would say in the UK - and so a newsworthy addition to our coverage.
It's much easier these days to travel to Vegas. There are direct, long-haul flights to the flashy new McCarran International Airport. It took just minutes to travel from there to the Mandalay Bay, the first hotel that greets you on The Strip. It's big, brash and has a casino larger than two football pitches.

Pyramid scheme: Las Vegas's splendid hotels include the Egypt-aping Luxor Hotel And Casino

There was very little sign of recession here. The hotel cost almost $1billion (£613million) to build, has more than 3,300 rooms and is where a certain young Prince relaxed with friends around a pool this summer, before moving on to an infamous party around a pool table.
Heading up one of the 24 escalators to my 15th-floor room, I opened the curtains on to a spectacular view of Las Vegas Boulevard.
The choice of hotel casinos caters to all pockets. A two-hour walk along The Strip will take you from Egypt to Paris via New York and Monte Carlo. Every hotel has a theme and, while gambling is still integral, Las Vegas now sells itself as an entertainment centre.
Stepping out for a stroll, I passed a 30-storey black glass pyramid guarded by the Great Sphinx of the Luxor Hotel. Inside you can visit the Titanic exhibition or the rather alarming Bodies experience - to see what humans look like inside.
Exiting swiftly, I noticed the giant billboards over the road; one offered the opportunity to fire a real machine gun, the next told me that Donny and Marie Osmond had been reunited for a nightly show at the Flamingo Hotel. One was sold out, the other had a waiting list...
Another hundred yards along The Strip, I was halted mid-stride by a replica of the Statue of Liberty. She proudly proclaimed the entrance to the New York New York Hotel, with its Manhattan skyline and memorial to the victims of 9/11. I couldn't resist a ride on the rollercoaster, but be warned, it's a fast, jolting ride and is not cheap at $14 (£8.60) for a 60-second thrill.

On edge: Kay took a trip out to the construction wonder that is the Hoover Dam

Feeling a little nauseous, I wandered past Monte Carlo, where the Blue Man Group entertain nightly in indigo body stockings. That would have been just too much, so instead I headed a few yards further to Paris, Vegas-style, with its 50-storey replica Eiffel Tower. By now my senses were becoming used to weird, mirage-style scenes. The Harley-Davidson Cafe with a giant motorbike jutting from the side of the building seemed almost passe.
One of the highlights is the Bellagio hotel, made famous by the movie Ocean's Eleven. Every evening it has a wonderful, choreographed dancing fountain display set to the music of Pavarotti and Frank Sinatra. The fountains are magical and made a perfect end to dinner. We had eaten an excellent Italian meal at the Bellagio which cost £60 per head including wine.
Next door at Caesar's Palace, Celine Dion was enticing the gamblers from the poker tables. Cirque du Soleil, the Frankie Valli tribute show Jersey Boys and a homage to The Beatles were available at other casinos. Meanwhile, a giant image of illusionist David Copperfield was projected on to the MGM Grand Hotel, advertising his show.
So, much more than gambling on offer then, but what about further afield? Little more than half an hour's drive away is an engineering wonder, the Hoover Dam, commissioned during the Depression by former President Herbert Hoover to provide a dependable supply of water for southern California.
A tour is worth the $11 (£6.75) fee if only to hear the guide ask: 'Do you have any dam questions?' The gag was greeted with a ripple of laughter. You can take a lazy stroll across it from Nevada into Arizona and lose an hour in the winter when the two states are in different time zones.

Vroom vroom: Other Vegas sites include the Harley Davidson Cafe, where a bike protrudes from the building

If you have more time but don't fancy a ten-hour round trip by road, a flight from Las Vegas to the Grand Canyon is well worth it. The return excursion takes about seven hours, costs around $350 (£215) per person and hotel concierges have details.
I had an election to cover so didn't have the time. I'm still kicking myself. As a holiday destination, Vegas is certainly worth a spin of the wheel. Fans Elton John, Will.i.am, Katy Perry and Prince Harry can't all be wrong.

Travel Facts

British Airways (www.ba.com) offers flights to Las Vegas from Heathrow and Gatwick. Return fares start at £644. America As You Like It (020 8742 8299,www.americaasyoulikeit.com) offers seven nights at the Mandalay Bay from £935. This includes return BA flights and accommodation.